Terschelling for DUTCH the Magazine
- butterflyprofessio
- 3 days ago
- 6 min read
Terschelling: A Peaceful Island Escape
If you venture to the far northwestern corner of the Netherlands, you’ll find the Wadden Islands. Terschelling lies in the middle of the five inhabited islands. The north coast of Terschelling rests against the North Sea while to the south is the Wadden Sea. Visitors can reach the island by the Rederij Doeksen ferry which has several daily crossings from Harlingen. Upon arrival on Terschelling, you’ll be immediately charmed by the island’s quaint brick homes, winding cobbled streets, and stunning coastlines.
The first settlements on the sandbars that would become Terschelling date to the 800s. At that time, it was possible to walk from the coast of Friesland to the village of Hoorn on the island. In December of 1287, a catastrophic storm over the North Sea caused devastating flooding. The water from the floods killed an estimated 50,000 people. Sea water also covered the sand walkway between the mainland and Hoorn, thus forming the island of Terschelling.
The North Sea location of Terschelling made it an asset for trade routes. In August of 1666, the English Fleet, led by Rear Admiral Robert Holmes, launched an attack on the merchant vessels in the water around Terschelling. One hundred forty Dutch vessels were destroyed by the English during what would become known as Holmes’ Bonfire and nearly two thousand Dutch soldiers perished. The village of West Terschelling was also destroyed by fire during the attack. According to legend, further damage on the island was prevented when the advancing British soldiers were unable to see clearly into the distance ahead of them through the island fog. The soldiers noticed figures standing tall, shrouded by the mist. They asked an old woman what the figures were. She replied, “There are hundreds of them standing and there are thousands lying.” While the woman was referring to the tall gravestones stationed in the Stryper Cemetery, the English thought she meant there were thousands of Dutch soldiers lying in wait. Instead of advancing further east, the English turned around and retreated. Today, you can visit the statue of the Stryper Wyfke (Stryper woman) at the Striep cemetery.
For the next two centuries, fishing and whaling were critical to Terschelling’s economy. As the whaling industry died off, it was gradually replaced by tourism. The new tourism industry brought visitors to the island until the start of the Second World War when life for the islanders changed dramatically. On May 16, 1940, inhabitants woke to the sound of German soldiers arriving on the island. It was the beginning of an occupation that would last until May of 1945.
The island was a critical station for the Germans during the war. They constructed a network of bunkers and radar detection systems with the help of the islanders. When the Germans first arrived, many island natives helped voluntarily. However, as the war continued, voluntary help became forced. The German commander in charge of Terschelling forbade visitors to the island without his permission beginning in August of 1940. The island was later declared a restricted area. The residents lost much of their freedom of movement around the island and were isolated from the mainland.
Evidence of the German occupation during the war is still present on Terschelling today. Visitors to the island can tour the remains of the Tigerstelling bunker complex. During the war, more than one hundred bunkers were built on this complex alone. Forty of these bunkers have been excavated and museum visitors can tour the mess bunker, command bunker, and several others for a sobering reminder of how Terschelling was leveraged by the Germans during the Second World War.
If touring bunkers isn’t your thing, don’t worry. There are plenty of other activities and things to see on Terschelling. Today, the island is divided into twelve different residential areas with West Terschelling remaining the largest village on the island. Several Frisian dialects are spoken on the island, but the influx or tourism has led to Dutch being more commonly spoken. Many restaurants and shops also have staff who speak some English.
Traveling to the island by ferry is fast and easy. Passengers can book a journey on one of the multiple daily crossings from Harlingen where the port is only a few steps from the train station. Depending on whether you choose the regular or fast boat, the trip takes between one to two hours. The ferry docks in the harbor in West Terschelling. Visitors may bring an auto to the island via the ferry, but this is not necessary. There are buses connecting the villages across the island making transportation a breeze for car-free visitors. You can also easily rent a bicycle from one of the rental shops in West Terschelling and navigate the island by bike.
In fact, renting a bicycle is one of the best ways to see the beauty of Terschelling up close. If you rent from one of the West Terschelling cycle shops near the harbor, you can begin your journey by viewing the Brandaris Lighthouse. Constructed in 1594, the Brandaris is the oldest working lighthouse in the Netherlands. It is one of the only buildings to have survived the English attack on West Terschelling in 1666. In 1837, the lighthouse was the first in the Netherlands to have a rotating Fresnel lens. This special ring-shaped lens made it possible to produce a more frequent signal which could be seen from further away, thus keeping more ships safe. The Brandaris still towers over all the other buildings in the village today at fifty-four meters high and the sand-colored structure is a popular subject for visitor photos.
Cyclists can continue their journey on the island by heading east either along the coast or on winding roads through the center of the island. Alternatively, cyclists can head north and reach the other side of the island by pedaling along a tree-lined trail dappled with light on a sunny day. The northern side of the island features rolling sand dunes and endless stretches of the North Sea. The main attraction on the eastern side of the island is the Boschplaat.
The Boschplaat is a ten-kilometer long, five-kilometer wide nature preserve through which visitors can walk or cycle year-round. Your adventure will take you through rolling sand dunes, salt marshes, and fields of sea lavender, purslane, and marsh grasses. During the breeding season between mid-March and mid-August, some parts of the Boschplaat are inaccessible as many species of birds use the area for breeding. More than sixty-five bird species call the Boschplaat home, including herring gulls, spoonbills, and lesser black-backed gulls. You can rent binoculars from the tourism office near the harbor for your day of birdwatching. If you prefer stargazing, the Boschplaat also features the Dark Sky Park. This stretch of beach allows viewers a clear view of the starry sky at night. Light pollution is intentionally limited which ensures a clear stretch of thousands of stars sparkling above you while you relax on the sand.
There are several other experiences that draw visitors to Terschelling. Boat tours run several times per week from the coast of West Terschelling. On these tours, you are likely to see seals sunning on the sand or frolicking in the sea. Horseback riding is also a popular excursion. Riders of all abilities from beginners to advanced can arrange a guided riding session through the forests and dunes on Terschelling. If you prefer a more relaxed equine activity, you can book a horse drawn wagon ride along the shore.
All this activity is certain to make you hungry. Don’t worry – there are plenty of tasty treats on the island. Cranberries grow freely and many local delicacies include the tart berries. You can even purchase cranberry laced nougat and fresh cranberry syrup in local shops to bring home. While you are out exploring the dunes, you can pop into the Heartbreak Hotel. This fifties themed diner on the beach features a menu of American classics such as burgers, hot dogs, fries, and milk shakes. For a nice evening out, the villages on the island are home to a wide variety of fare including Italian feasts, eclectic fusion concepts, and locally sourced seafood.
While many of the main attractions on Terschelling are available year-round, there are also a few special events that are worth visiting during. Every June, Terschelling hosts the Oerol Festival. Over ten days, the festival features theater, music, visual arts, talks, storytelling, and immersive experiences. Approximately fifty-thousand visitors come to the island for the festival every year.
Terschelling is also host to several athletic competitions. Runners can participate in the Berenloop Marathon through the sand dunes of the island every November. Sailors compete in the annual HT sailing race between Harlingen and Terschelling every May. Cyclists can challenge themselves during the MTB Noordsvaarder cross-country trek which allows cyclists to cover either a forty-five or seventy-kilometer route around the island.
Terschelling is a small island. However, it is packed with a wide range of activities and sights to enjoy, whatever your holiday style might be. Whether you choose to spend your time on the island seeking adventure and activity or relaxing with calm walks through peaceful dunes, Terschelling is sure leave you with pleasant memories.
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